Chamae was born in India, cultivated in China, and introduced to Korea during Korea’s Three Kingdom Era. Prized since, this summer superfruit is jam-packed with nutrients like vitamin A, vitamin C, folate and calcium, and is especially beneficial as the temperatures rise when our bodies crave foods to cool us and help us fight fatigue. As we sweat, we need alkalizing foods like chamae to rebalance our pH levels, giving us more energy, better digestion and skin, improved alertness and deeper sleep.

Look for fruit with straight white lines—the straighter, the tastier—and a clean, honeyed aroma. Squeeze and feel for a little give. The whole melon is edible, even the peel, and especially the seeds, where the sweetest part of the melon lies. 

We give you two recipes to celebrate this fetching fruit: one simple and one more involved, both refreshing and perfect for summer.

Chamae with honey, chili and lemon
2 chamae
½ teaspoon honey
¼ teaspoon gochuggaru (ground red pepper) or more
juice of one lemon
pinch salt

Scrub the peel of each melon well. Peel or leave the skin on, as you prefer. Chop into bite-sized pieces. Whisk the remaining ingredients together and toss with the fruit. Chill for at least an hour.

Chamae Gazpacho
4–5 chamae (about 1½ cups peeled and chopped)
2 tablespoons minced spring onions
½ cup extra virgin olive oil (the fruitier, the better)
1 cup bread, stale and without crusts
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon brown rice vinegar
¾ teaspoon salt

Peel and chop each melon. An easy way to go about this is to cut the melon in half, then into wedges, and take the peel away from each wedge with a paring knife.

Puree the chopped melon, spring onions and olive oil. Meanwhile, soak the bread in water for 15 minutes. Squeeze water from the bread and add it in pieces to the pureed melon, onions and oil. Add vinegar and salt. Chill for at least an hour or two, ideally overnight. As time goes on, the onion will mellow to the background, becoming almost indistinguishable. Here’s where the melon’s mild-tempered, aromatic sweetness really shines. Adjust with more vinegar or salt at the end just before serving.

Ladle into bowls and garnish with fresh basil, spring onion and a swirl of olive oil.

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Thanks to Jihye Han for research assistance.

Seoul is a place bursting with businesses that do a whole lot of things at once. A restaurant that serves tapas, fried rice, pasta, and curry? You could call it this city’s appeal. More often than not, however, it’s a case of lost identity. So when you come across a place like MO Jain Song that manages to juggle a clothing store, a lifestyle shop, a terrace cafe, and a rooftop garden with such panache, you can’t help but squeal with delight.

Fashion designer Jain Song opened her first shop in 2004, focusing on modern clothes without the use of leather or animal fur. Ever the nature lover, Song’s growing green thumb is what inspired her to open up her first “concept store” in Hannam-dong with much buzz on April 5th. Charmed by the small hidden alleys of the neighborhood, she immediately took up space at a little-known passageway off the main road. The store, designed by acclaimed architect Jong Hwan Lee (이종환) of Papergarden and CT Bakery fame, is a welcome medley of all the things that would pique the interest of a tree-hugging city girl. In a nutshell, it’s a living, breathing motto that Song had always sought after: City & Nature.

This “shop in shop” starts with Song’s latest fashion collection on the first level. Try if you may, but it’s hard to pass the floor brimming with her creations, from an oversized royal blue clutch with sawtooth trim to a chic black shift dress. Her taste is unmistakably clean and modern.

Just up the stairs is MO Jain Song’s lifestyle shop and cafe. An amalgamation of both Korean and foreign brands, the products range from environmentally friendly paper straws made by Snug & Co. to Mast Brothers-inspired chocolate bars by local darlings Chocolat & Objet. It’s even home to classics like the distinguished garment scissors brand, Gingher, and cult favorite Midori’s brass desktop accessories. Song is relentlessly on the hunt for new brands to be carried here, so you can expect constant changes in the products (that also means if you like something, don’t hesitate to buy it right then and there).

The cafe is a testament to pared down basics at its best. It only offers a handful of drinks, one of which is their signature, the “Honey Black.” It’s a concoction of “shakerato” (all the boom in Italy, made by vigorously shaking espresso with a ton of ice until froth forms) and acacia honey. The natural sweetener sits at the bottom of the glass, while the shakerato tops the cool drink with a considerable amount of crema. The acacia honey exudes a sweetness that’s clean and slightly fragrant, not at all cloying like the simple syrup you might pour into your Americano. The cafe also serves Mariage Frères black tea among a handful of coffee shop staples, as well as Nagasaki castellas.

Just on the other side of the cafe counter is their outdoor space, furnished with three small tables and a shelf lined with potted plants for purchase. However, the real gem is on the third floor. The rooftop space functions mostly as a garden, but also has a couple of tables with parasols (warning: it does get pretty hot in the afternoon!). So far, the staff has planted staples like kale, strawberries and lettuce, and they’ll be given away to customers whenever they’re ripe for picking. Once they’re given out, more will be planted, so there’s a constant rotation of produce. You can also take part in the “farming” by helping them plant other vegetables and flowers (ask a staff member and they’ll even give you a quick Gardening 101).

MO Jain Song packs all the charm of a city life, coupled with a genuine heart for the environment. It’s one multi-shop that actually gets it right.

Beot-ggot nori is a devil of a word to translate. Literally, it translates to “cherry blossom enjoying,” and roughly, it means “flower viewing.” But English somehow doesn’t do justice to the lightness felt between the sternum and backbone while walking beneath the pink and white blooms. A week or so after the first blossoms appear, petals float through the air and pile up like snowdrifts. You don’t just “view” this.

Here in Seoul, Yeouido is well-known for its annual cherry blossom festival. Yeouido being Seoul’s main destination for beot-ggot nori also means that your pale-pink reveries will come elbow-to-elbow with many other camera-toting, stroller-pushing, couple-entwined festivalgoers. With this in mind, we’ve compiled a list of alternative cherry blossom destinations. While not all have quite the grandeur of Yeouido’s cherry trees, each neighborhood has something special of its own to share.

Geumcheon Cherry Blossom Mile Street (벚꽃십리길): The Geumchon Harmony Cherry Blossom Festival is being celebrated now through April 19th along a 3.1 km walking trail in western Seoul. The path, which runs alongside the train tracks, stretches from Geumcheon-gu Office Station (line 1) to Gasan Digital Complex Station (lines 1 & 7) and is lined with 639 cherry trees. Reward yourself with some outlet mall shopping at the end of the path, or else some chicken kalguksu (knife-cut noodles) at Gongdan Bunshik, near exit 6. Getting there: Geumcheon-gu Office Station exit 1, turn left (with the station to your back) and walk north.

Hapjeong café alley: This side street near Hongdae is perfect for getting your fill of cafés, boutiques and small restaurants under the as-yet-young cherry trees. From exit 5 at Hapjeong station (lines 2 and 6) take an immediate right after the Giant bike shop and keep left. Café Neighborhood has a great people-watching terrace if you can snag one of the umbrella-shaded tables (the menu and pricetag don’t quite merit settling for an indoor seat, though). A Seoulist favorite, Bori-eul, serves up healthful and savory bowls of bori-bap (barley bibimbap) just across the street for 6,000 won.

Dangin-dong power plant: Just southeast of Hapjeong is a towering renewable energy plant. Surprisingly, the grounds of the plant are covered in cherry trees—it actually opens up to the public for two days in spring (which, unfortunately, was this past weekend). Nonetheless, the cherry trees surrounding the plant are still quite pretty if you’re in the area. Stop in at Anthracite, a shoe-factory-turned-coffee-shop, and take in the sun on the rooftop patio after enjoying your walk. Getting there: From Hapjeong Station take exit 7 and walk east about 400m, turning right at the small Emart. Take this cherry-blossom-lined road to the rotary and turn either left or right, up to you. Anthracite is 100m northeast of the rotary, here.

Yeonnam-dong and Yeonhui-dong: These gracefully aging neighborhoods sit at a peaceful distance from their vibrant neighbor to the south, Hongdae. Large-scale redevelopment has not quite yet overtaken their quiet golmok alleys, several of which are full of pink cherry blossoms. After touring the area, stop by Coffee Libre for some of Seoul’s most highly regarded caffeinated brew. Getting there: One of Yeonnam-dong’s prettiest cherry blossom alleys starts at this location (map), an 8 minute walk from Hongik University Station exit 3. Yeonhui-dong is just north-east towards Yonsei University, and worth a wander as well.

If you’re feeling more adventurous, we hear that a long walk up behind Yonsei University to Ansan Park yields beautiful blossoms and views of the city.

Jeongdok Library: Located in the heart of Samcheong-dong, another popular walking neighborhood chock-full of appealing cafés and restaurants, Jeongdok Public Library has a park-like entrance complete with benches and (of course) cherry trees. Getting there: Anguk Station (line 3). Map & directions here. Photo by Youkyung Lee.

Samcheong Park cherry blossom path: If you’re up for some more walking, head north from Jeongdok Library to the Samcheong Park entrance for a respite from the city air (map). The park sits along the edge of Bugaksan, and after having your fill of cherry blossoms, you can go for a full-on trek up the mountain.

Namsan: Take the scenic route up “South Mountain” by hopping on a cable car (from Myeongdong Station, exit 3) to the top for views of the city and flora alike. As of the publication of this article, the trees are just beginning to bloom, and this weekend looks promising. (And naturally, there’s a lot to do once you get to the top.) When you’re ready to take your leave, take the pedestrian path down the mountain for a leisurely stroll among the trees, keeping to the main road, and you’ll end up at the Banyan Tree Hotel. Otherwise, yellow bus #3 will take you to Seoul Station, Itaewon Station and Yaksu Station. For a detailed walking tour, try National Geographic’s guide here.

Seoul National Cemetery: The National Cemetery admits that its trees are not quite as impressive as Yeouido’s, but the site itself is an historical destination and somber contrast to the frolicking crowds elsewhere. As if to reinforce the association, the particular species of cherry tree at the National Cemetery is the suyang beot-ggot, or weeping cherry tree, so named for its long, draping, willow-like branches. The suyang cherry tree was planted in great quantities by King Hyojong, who wished to make bows and arrows from the wood and avenge the Manchurian Invasion of 1636. The Cemetery also hosts a cherry blossom festival from April 15th to 21st, with live music from military bands and bow-making activities for children. Getting there: Dongjak Station (line 4 and 9), exit 8.

Jamsil 5-danji: Pronounced Jamshil oh-danji, this large apartment complex just across the road from Lotte World is criss-crossed with roads lined with cherry trees, a unique urban take on the bbeot-ggot nori. (The complex itself is a good example of “mega-danji” design after the modernist urbanism of Le Corbusier.) The white flowers set against the lofty white buildings are strikingly beautiful and almost surreal. After taking a tour of Jamsil 5-danji, head across the street to the other side of Lotte World to add Seokchon Lake’s cherry trees to your itinerary. Jamsil Station (line 2) exit 6. Take your first left into the complex. Photo by Jiyon Ha.

Seokchon Lake: This man-made lake sits along the southern edge of Lotte World amusement park and is divided into two basins. The walking path around the lake is bordered by thick white blooms. Enjoy the view from pan-Euro/nouvelle cuisine restaurant The Dining Hosoo (tip: make reservations; it’s crowded this time of year). Alternatively, while you’re in the area, why not pair your petal picnicking with a detour to Lotte World’s roller coasters? Getting there: Jamsil Station (line 2) exit 3. Walk around to the south side of Lotte Hotel World to the lake path entrance. Photo by Hye-Sook Sohn.

Children’s Grand Park: More of an open area and less of a distinct touring route, the Children’s Grand Park offers wide, grassy spaces that are perfect for picnicking. As the name suggests, it’s also a good destination to bring children, complete with a petting zoo and marine animal house. More information and directions here.

The Sheraton Walkerhill: The grounds of this high-end hotel complex on the slopes of Achasan are well known for their cherry blossoms. One of their paths is called the “cloud road” for all the fluffy white petals that float overhead. Stop by this weekend to enjoy the blooms and the spring beer fair on the 20th and 21st, from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. A 15,000 won ticket gets you tastings of over 50 brews, discounts on over 100 different beers from Asia and Europe, and a drawing + prizes. Tip: Use this coupon to get 5,000 won off. Directions here.

Yangjaecheon (Yangjae Stream): A tributary of the Han River, Yangjaecheon in Gangnam is lined with cherry trees that lean over the 3.5 km walking path. A bike path runs parallel to the more flora-filled pedestrian way. Yangjae Stream is easily accessible by subway via any stops between Dogok Station and Daecheong Station, (both line 3 and the Bundang line). More information and directions here.

Tancheon (Tan Stream): Cherry blossoms abound along this tributary as well. Expect to see bikers: Tan Stream links Yangjae Stream with the Han River, all of which are popular routes for local cycling enthusiasts. Getting there: It’s easier to access Tan Stream by walking north along Yangjae Stream, or else from Cheongdam station (line7) exit 14, walk east through the underpass to the north end of Tan Stream. Photo by Kelly Potratz.

College campuses: Several friends who are alums or employees of the following universities recommended their campuses as good places for spring flower viewing: Kyunghee University, Sogang University, Yonsei University, Dongkuk University and Seoul National University (cherry trees at SNU apparently bloom 2–4 weeks later than the rest of Seoul due its location on the north side of Gwanak Mountain).

Got any more tips? Leave them in the comments!

Every once in a while, my friends abroad ask me to send them a box of goodies from Korea. These boxes are part care packages, part tiny boxed Korean trend reports. They’re a combination of things the receiver loves and things I think they should get to know. This month’s trend box is a package for a design and beauty-lover living in California.

Cute socks for every style and occasion
1) These polka dotted socks are cute enough from the front, but turn them over and watch your feet transform into a cartoonish duck. The entire backside of each sock is designed as the body of a duck, with its bill fitting snugly over your heel. Polka dot duck socks 2,500 won/pair at Artbox.

2) Spring forward with these pastel-colored ankle socks from Emart. They’re just as cute as designer sets, perhaps even more practical for the coming season, and a steal at just 6,900 won for a set of five.

3) Stripes or solids? Get the best of both worlds with these striped socks that fold down. When you get tired of stripes, you can fold these socks over to get a little solid peeking from above your shoes. Foldover socks 2,500 won/pair at Artbox.

4. Colorful and bold stationery
This season’s pretty papers are surprisingly similar to socks—bold, colorful with alternating polkadots and stripes. Stationery sets (4 sheets + 2 envelopes), 1,200 won; polka dot envelopes, 700 won at Artbox.

5) Dewy, barely-there makeup
Korea’s obsession with the “first love” (첫사랑) look isn’t going anywhere. Achieve your own bright-eyed, dewy-faced (read: young) look by mixing in a pearly primer like Beyond Angel Aqua Moisturizing primer with your regular cover. For a lighter finish, mix the primer in with BB cream before applying. For more coverage, you can also apply a layer of primer on your face before applying BB cream. Care Zone BB Cream from ISA KNOX is specially formulated to battle ongoing blemish and redness issues. Beyond Angel Aqua Moisturizing Primer, 15,000 won at Olive Young; Care Zone BB Cream, 30,000 won at Olive Young.

6) Impeccable Brows
One thing Korean women won’t leave the house without are perfectly shaped and filled eyebrows. Most brow kits are available in two darker and lighter tones, but VOV eyeshadow kit offers three, accommodating more shape and range. Use a stiff short-bristled brush to apply and smooth. VOV Jean Eyeshadow Kit, 8,000 won at Olive Young.

7) High-tech ear pick
This “magic” lit ear pick isn’t for everybody, but the recipient of the box has fond memories of having her ear cleaned out by her mother as a child. This is an upgraded version of the traditional metal or wooden ear pick, complete with a guiding light. Magic light ear pick, 1,900 won at E-Mart.

BONUS

Expandable grocery bag
In a country where it’s standard to pay an additional 20 to 100 won for a plastic or paper bag for purchases, smart shoppers always have a bag handy. In lieu of bulky canvas bags, more Koreans are carrying these colorful, sturdy and reusable shopping bags made of nylon that can roll up and easily fit into a small purse. Some, like this one pictured above, are more functional than others, featuring an attached clasp and keychain.

We all take pride in our own neighborhoods, but those living in Heukseok-dong say they especially love the area’s pleasant seclusion—something that is often hard to find in a crowded city like Seoul. Though it is located in the middle of the capital and is home to the reputable Chung-Ang University, Heukseok-dong is not well known among most Seoulites. It is surrounded by mountains and offers amazing views of Hangang, but it is also one of the few daldongnae (달동네, or shantytowns) that remain in central Seoul. But Heukseokers, as young locals part of the “All Heukseok” (흑석동의 모든것) Facebook page like to refer to themselves, embrace the obscurity because it comes with its rewards like quiet restaurants, cozy basement cafes and other retreats.

Kkotsura (꽃수라) | For a taste of home
Kkotsura is a small restaurant with home-style dishes. The food is wholesome, made without synthetic flavoring and with the owner/chef’s own hands. The owner even offers breakfast for CAU students and is known to shower her employees with delicious food and fun talk. Try the ttukbaegi galbijjim (뚝배기 갈비찜); you won’t be able to find it anywhere else at this price. Kkotsura: 44 Heukseok-ro 13ga-gil, Dongjak-gu, Seoul (map). Located opposite The Frypan. Accessible via Heukseok Station (exit 4).

Hue: to rest (‘휴休 ; 쉬다, 쉼터) | For peace and tea
With its partitioned tables and attic-like feel, Hue is a great tea house for friends or someone wanting a little privacy. The soothing voice of the owner and the surprisingly sweet lemon tea summons peace and rest. Traditional tea is comparatively cheap; herbal tea comes in many flavors and will set you back about 5,000 won. If you’re looking for something more stimulating, try your hand at one of their many board games or make friends with the resident puppy. Hue: 3rd floor, 101-5, Heukseok-ro, Dongjak-gu, Seoul (map). On the 3rd floor of the Oppa-dak (오빠닭) building.

Café Ann (카페 안) | For an evening drink
Café Ann’s tiny and curious entrance is reminiscent of a door from Alice in Wonderland. This relatively unknown café/restaurant is known for its cozy atmosphere and attracts people seeking a more intimate space. Café Ahn sells light meals and drinks. Since cocktails and house wine are not a common sighting on menus near Chung-Ang University, student patrons refer lovingly to Café Ann as “an oasis in the desert.” Café Ahn: 88, Heukseok-ro, Dongjak-gu, Seoul (map). Tel: 02-824-2788.

There’s Factory (데얼즈 팩토리) | For coffe and comics
One of the “it” cafés of Heukseok-dong that is popular and frequented by both CAU students and residents. There’s Factory is filled with cutesy props, knickknacks and a variety of books and comics to keep you entertained if you have time to kill. The café takes after its travel and culture-loving owner, so expect to run into some crowds and little cultural events here. There’s Factory: 81-6 Heukseok-ro, Dongjak-gu, Seoul (map). Tel: 070-7620-5222.

Haerang Chobab (해랑초밥) | For student-friendly sushi
A Japanese restaurant popular with CAU students for its high quality (but still student budget-friendly) sushi and sashimi. There may be several Japanese restaurants near Heukseok Station, but Haerang Chobab is known for its food and stellar service—the Korean kind, that is. If you pay for your meal in cash, the owner/chef is known to slide extra sushi onto your table. Haerang Chobab: 116 Heukseok-ro, Dongjak-gu, Seoul (map). Tel: 02-814-1400

Cabin (캐빈) | For a mini getaway
Featuring wood paneling throughout the bar, Cabin lives up to its name in décor and ambiance. Maybe it is the creaking sound of the hardwood floors or the countryside pub aesthetic, but Cabin is one of those bars that allow people to let their guard down and talk freely—a feeling some students say is hard to find outside of the international Itaewon district. If you go, keep in mind that Cabin also lives up to its name in size with cozy round tables and a limited bar. Cabin: 3 Heukseok-ro 7-gil, Dongjak-gu, Seoul (map). Tel: 02-824-6760

Teobangnae (터방내) | For the nostalgic
This café, one of the oldest in the neighborhood and one of the last ones to allow smoking indoors, is closer to a dabang, aka an old-school Korean café. Teobangnae is known for its drip coffees but the offerings on the menu may seem a bit foreign as they still use old brewing methods. With a nostalgic interior and musty salon vibe, Teobangnae attracts CAU professors and older locals looking to relive the dabang days. Teobangnae: 101-7 Heukseok-ro, Dongjak-gu, Seoul (map). Tel: 02-813-4434

Hyosajeong (효사정) | For the best view of Hangang
To take in some beautiful scenery of the Hangang, head to Hyosajeong, an open pavilion that symbolizes Korean filial love. It’s just a quick stroll from Heukseok Station (exit 1) and an excellent spot to look over the river and the Dongjak Bridge. Hyosajeong: 141-2 Heukseok-dong, Dongjak-gu, Seoul (map).

Yongbongjeong (용봉정) | For sweeping views of Seoul
At one of the highest grounds in Heukseok-dong you’ll find Yongbongjeong, a spot where you could see Yeouido Island, Dongjak Bridge and Dongbuichon-dong in one sweep. Yongbongjeong has been recognized by the city of Seoul as having one of the best views of the city, and locals love to take in the annual fireworks festival from this area. Yongbongjeong can be difficult for visitors to find, and even long-time residents of Heukseok-dong have trouble finding their way around. If you go, ask a local to show you the way or take GPS-equipped phone! Map.

Heukseok Market (흑석시장) | For a taste of Heukseok-dong
Heukseok Market is a place of meeting and socialization, and you’ll be charmed by the local shoppers, vendors and energy (not to mention its many culinary offerings). Like most outdoor markets in Korea, you will find plenty of matjip, or storied food stalls and restaurants, situated throughout the alleys. Some long-running favorites include Eongteori Saeng-gogi (엉터리 생고기 [map]) for grilled meat and Donghae Haemul Kalguksu (동해해물칼국수 [map]) for traditional thick noodles. The unlimited donkasu restaurant Heukseok-dong Sujae Donkasu (흑석동수제돈까스 [map]) is a recent hit among hungry CAU students as well. And if you’re feeling brave (or hung over), enter the Soondae (“blood sausage”) Alley for a taste one of the best soondae stews that Seoul has to offer. Heukseok Market is the best way to fuel or finish off your tour of Heukseok-dong. Heukseok Market: 5 Seodal-ro 14ga-gil, Dongjak-gu, Seoul (map).

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Written by All Heukseok editorial team: Seunghak Cha, Yoonjoo Jang, Soeun Kim, Hyeyeon Lim. Photos by Doyeon Hwang

ABOUT ‘흑석동의 모든 것‘   
이름 그대로 흑석동의 ‘모든 것’에 대한 정보와 이야기를 공유하는 페이스북 커뮤니티 페이지. 흑석동이라는 작은 공간에서 살아가는 사람들의 이야기와 삶의 방식을 함께 공유하는 것이 내 공간을 아끼고 사랑하는 방법이라고 생각하는 모든 흑석커들의 참여를 언제나 기다리는 중! ‘흑모것’과 형제자매와 같은 ‘흑석동 문화 만들기 프로젝트’ 페이지에서는 플리마켓, 인디 공연, 전시회 등 즐거운 문화예술 행사가 가득한 흑석동을 만나볼 수 있다.

Mullae art village, a rising spot for young minds looking for a different creative vibe is located in the center of Yeongdeungpo-gu, where newly-constructed buildings and old shops from industrial times mingle. Entering the main street of the art village, two high-rise multi-purpose buildings overlook flâneurs who might have been surprised by the still-active iron makers. Here and there are wall paintings and colorful signs that local artists made for shop owners, adding a special ambience to the scene.

Young artists first came to find workshop spaces in Mullae about 10 years ago, when the iron shops in the area moved due to factory transfer policies and redevelopment. The village incubates various kinds of spaces such as workshops, galleries, cafés and concert venues. Somssi (솜씨) and Jungdabang Project (정다방 프로젝트) have small café spaces for visitors in their exhibition galleries that feature artists who have workshops in the area. Concert venue Low Rise (로라이즈) hosts live music performances and contemporary art projects.

The biggest plus for the artists in Mullae has been the reasonable rents. The location being only 10 minutes by subway from Hongdae is also a big advantage. Photographer Jun Park, who joined me on my tour of Mullae and graciously shared his photos with us, has been a part of a photographers’ work space and gallery named Bittarae (빛타래) since last year. “I liked the idea of the space because it is close to Hongdae and seemed like a great place to meet a lot of interesting people,” said Park. “I get to talk with people who come for exhibitions we host. I promote our events on my Naver blog and Twitter.”

Product designer Shim Soo-hwa found both her home and workplace in Mullae 4 years ago. Shim runs a cat furniture store called Tongzorim (통조림), also online. Her products are all handmade and high-end. “My college friends already had their workshop in Mullae art village before I moved in. I had a look and it seemed like a perfect multi-use place for me to live and make products.”

There are about 200 artists like Park and Shim who have their workshops in the art village. About half of them actively interact with the artists’ community, and some of them also try to connect with the local community where they are based.

Furniture maker Lee Gyeong-won is one of the people who actively participates in both the artists’ community and local community. He opened up his working space Namusurae (나무수레) to local residents for furniture-making courses. Most of the students are in their 30s or 40s, both men and women. Lee also teaches carpentry skills to elderly people in Yeongdeungpo Senior Center for their job-seeking project. As a member of the artists’ community, he also makes furniture for the village’s themed exhibition projects once or twice a year.

“I spent 5 years in Mullae now and I don’t think I will move my workshop far from here even when I have to move due to redevelopment or any other reasons,” said Lee. “How we support each other by visiting each other’s exhibitions and planning new projects together is the asset to all of us.”

“There is a reason why some artists want to keep their places closed. If the village becomes like a tourist attraction, the rents will go up and artists will have to move out in the end.”

Though in general the village is known for its openness, some artists keep their workshops closed and private. Wanderers who come expecting to observe the lively art scene sometimes go home slightly disappointed after encountering a rather quiet atmosphere.

“There is a reason why some artists want to keep their places closed. If the village becomes like a tourist attraction, the rents will go up and artists will have to move out in the end,” said former UI designer Jang Jin-ho, who opened gallery/café Flatfic (플랫픽) on the main Mullae drag three months ago. “But how I want to promote this village is as an area that people can think of when they want to go see artwork, as they think of Hongdae or Insa-dong.”

With this in mind, Jang decided to make his workplace a multi-use gallery and café space that both local artists and visitors find cozy. He brought his own coffee machines from home and invited photographers to hang their work on the café’s walls. “I hope to host more exhibitions by more well-known artists too,” Jang added.

Despite concerns about over-commercialization as the area becomes increasingly popular, it is these homegrown efforts by local artists and Mullae-goers that keep the neighborhood unique. Art here is not only coexisting with, but thriving amongst the iron-makers of Mullae. Namusurae owner Lee summed it up best: “This unique vibe we created exists only in Mullae. It will not work like this in another neighborhood even if all of us move together.”

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Photography: Jun Park is a Seoul-based photographer. See more of his work at mikaphoto.net.

Just when I thought I’d heard of every variety of modern day food verve, I met Dustin Wessa and Halme Lee. They opened Dandy Pink on January 1st this year, and they’re calling it a “grub lounge,” a spot to meet, imbibe and be easy.

Wessa grew up in Battleground, Washington and Lee is from Jongno. They’ve built their lives around food, deciding two years ago when they married to turn this shared enthusiasm for good company and good food into a business—an extension of the entertaining the couple loves to do at home.,

While Wessa grills in the open kitchen, Lee takes cares of their guests. I asked them how they handle a busy night without extra help.

“When I was in Spain, I drew a lot of inspiration from tapas bars. The restaurant would be packed, with platters of food piled high on the bar, and the chef behind it would slide a mug of beer from one end of the bar to the other. It was constant motion, a juggling act, but the chef always handled it. It was always just him,” says Wessa.

Tucked up away from the main roads of Noksapyeong, Dandy Pink doesn’t attract many passersby. Instead, once inside, you feel as if you were given an invite to escape the city’s clamor. Cobalt walls, floor-to-ceiling glass windows, boxy furniture and hand-selected relics, like Italian leather wine bottles and a 150-year-old heirloom silver tea set, all meld together into a cool hybrid of romance and novelty. The couple designed the interior and Lee’s father built it. Noksapyeong was not their first choice of locale, but a chance encounter abruptly ended their search: when they arrived at the site, the former occupant greeted them at the door by asking if they planned to serve alcohol. She was a shaman, she said, and she had dreamed they were coming.

Each beer at Dandy Pink comes on a gilded coaster with a snack on the side – sometimes house-fried pork rinds if you go on the right night. Details like these make the haunt memorable. Magpie’s pale ale and porter are on tap. A tight but thoughtful menu offers small plates like meat and shrimp skewers and smoked bacon rubbed with spiced cocoa powder. Seasonal items are to be added, including drinks.

Come spring, Wessa and Lee spend a lot of time in their rooftop garden. All of the herbs, oils and marinades they use for Dandy Pink’s menu are house-made with components they’ve grown, like fennel for a seven-spice powder and habaneros for their signature jerk seasoning. What they don’t grow, they buy directly from small nearby markets. Jars of fennel oil, jerk seasoning, mojo sauce and spiced cocoa powder sell for 8,000 to 15,000 won, and are only available at Dandy Pink.

If you’re living in Seoul, chances are you passed by a dozen or so Korean beauty shops during your morning commute. Quality formulas, innovative beauty solutions and adorably packaged products with unbeatable price points satisfy the pickiest of locals and are raising eyebrows outside of Korea. So take advantage of your location and take the plunge. Not sure what to pick up? Here are seven top rated Korean beauty products that may get you to ditch your overpriced luxury brand eyeliners and liptints—for good.

International Luxury Brand
MAC PREP + PRIME BEAUTY BALM SPF 35/PA+++ (30ML /1.0 FL OZ)
RETAIL @ MAC $30

Korean Brand
MISSHA PERFECT COVER BB CREAM SPF 42 PA+++ (50ML)
RETAIL @ SOKOGLAM $18

The Showdown
MAC introduced the “Beauty Balm” in response to the wildly popular and Korean-concocted BB creams, or “Blemish Balm.”  Don’t be fooled, because the Beauty Balm is more like a tinted primer, as it lacks key BB cream ingredients such as anti-aging and whitening agents. It’s the reason why MISSHA’s Perfect Cover BB cream has a stronger following—also thanks to its super natural coverage, and higher SPF.

International Luxury Brand
BOBBI BROWN LONG WEAR GEL EYELINER (3G/ 0.1 OZ.)
RETAIL @ BOBBI BROWN $23

Korean Brand
TOO COOL FOR SCHOOL EYE DESIGN BOX (GEL EYELINER + EYEBROW SETTING POWDER + DUAL SIDED BRUSH) (3.7G)
RETAIL @ SOKOGLAM $18

The Showdown
While Bobbi Brown led the gel eyeliner pot trend, Too Cool for School proves to be a strong challenger by also offering quality long-lasting gel eyeliner that glides on smoothly (and they threw in a two-toned eyebrow setting powder and dual sided brush in a compact case- just because they could).

International Luxury Brand
CLARINS EYEBROW PENCIL (1.3G)
RETAIL @ MACY’S $23

Korean Brand
THE FACESHOP DESIGN MY EYEBROW (0.25G)
RETAIL @ SOKOGLAM $6

The Showdown
Clarins’ eyebrow pencil has been a staple for many years, but is badly in need of a face lift. The Faceshop’s Design My Eyebrow offers a sturdier spooley brush (Clarins’ brushes tend to snap off or bristles fall out) and gorgeous brow tones with a price point that seems too good to be true.

International Luxury Brand
BENEFIT BENETINT ROSE-TINTED LIP & CHEEK STAIN (12.5ML / 0.40 FL. OZ.)
RETAIL @ BENEFIT $29

Korean Brand
ETUDE HOUSE FRESH CHERRY TINT (9G)
RETAIL @ SOKOGLAM $7

The Showdown
Etude House’s Fresh Cherry Tint formula makes Benefit’s Benetint Lip and Cheek Stain look and feel like you’re putting on red food coloring. The Fresh Cherry Tint on the other hand, is incredibly long lasting, creamy in texture, and moisturizing. Plus, super cute packaging!

International Luxury Brand
URBAN DECAY EYESHADOW PRIMER POTION (0.37 FL. OZ.)
RETAIL @ URBAN DECAY $20

Korean Brand
ETUDE HOUSE PROOF 10 EYE PRIMER (0.35 FL. OZ.)
RETAIL @ SOKOGLAM $7

The Showdown
Etude House’s Proof 10 Eye Primer has a no-nonsense formula that glides on smoothly, dries quickly and keeps eyeliner and eyeshadow looking vibrant 24/7. Similar to Urban Decay’s popular Primer Potion, but at less than half the price.

International Luxury Brand
URBAN DECAY 24/7 GLIDE ON EYE PENCIL (WATERPROOF) (0.04 FL. OZ)
RETAIL @ URBAN DECAY $19

Korean Brand
THE FACESHOP MAKE ME STAR WATERPROOF GEL LINER (0.06 FL OZ.)
RETAIL @ SOKOGLAM $6

The Showdown
The Faceshop challenged Urban Decay’s 24/7 Glide on Pencil with its Make Me Star Gel Liner. While both have gorgeous shimmery tones and are definitely long-lasting, Make Me Star got creative and included a rubber tip tool to help with smudging when needed.

International Luxury Brand
LANCOME HYPNOSE STAR
RETAIL @LANCOME $28

Korean Brand
ETUDE HOUSE LASH PERM 3 STEP VOLUMECARA (9.5G)
RETAIL @ SOKOGLAM $15

The Showdown
Lancome is everybody’s favorite mascara brand, but probably because they haven’t heard of Etude House’s Lash Perm 3 Step Volumecara yet. Instead of offering a basic dual-sided brush, they took it a step further by giving you the ability to expand and shrink your wand in three clicks, to achieve three types of voluminous looks. Cool.

Living in Seoul can be a challenge if you’re not gainfully employed, but that doesn’t have to stop you from enjoying all that the city has to offer. The baeksu (백수) approach to unemployment is simple: “Don’t earn and don’t spend.” Not ready to give up life’s little luxuries just yet? Then try making the lifestyle decision to “earn less and spend less” instead. With that in mind, we’ve rounded up some of the best entertainment, culture and dining options that allow you to optimize your time to compensate for your lack of funds. Let the funemployment begin!

MOVIE MARKDOWNS

Early-morning matinées
Most movie theaters offer a discount called jojo ha-rin (조조할인) for the first screening for each movie before 11 a.m. These tickets are usually 5,000 won (compared to the typical 9,000 won weekend admission). If you’re a night owl, look instead for theaters that offer a comparable discount for late-night showings, also called shimya ha-rin (심야할인). Last showings are still quite popular, so discounts for them aren’t as ubiquitous as the early morning ones.

Movie All Night
Select 24-hour movie theaters like Megabox Dongdaemun offer a late-night movie package called Movie All Night (무비올나잇) for 15,000 won. This three-movie marathon is the cinematic equivalent of Hongdae’s Club Day: 15,000 won gets you a yellow wristband that grants access to three different movies. The movies play back-to-back, and the first screening starts between 11 p.m. and midnight on Fridays and Saturdays only. Included in the admission are disposable slippers and complimentary blanket rentals for your comfort. An additional 5,000 won gets you a combo meal, and 2,000 won will buy you ramen and other snacks to satisfy late-night cravings. This coming weekend’s big draw includes the foreign movie package: Cloud Atlas, Life of Pi and Les Miserables or the Korean movie package: Baksugundal (박수건달), My Little Hero (마이리틀히어로) or Tower (타워). You can purchase the Movie All Night package in-person or online. Note: Megabox Dongdaemun is the pioneering theater behind Movie All Night. Megabox Central at Express Bus Terminal also hosts this weekend event. Other cinema brands have been known to offer comparable discounts, but usually part of a seasonal or short-term promotion.

THEATER DISCOUNTS

Purchase day-of-performance tickets at the Seoul Theater Center
The Ticket Box at the Seoul Theater Center is where you can get up to 50% off on Daehakno area theater tickets playing that day (당일예매할인). Go earlier for better options, but there’s usually not a line or a limit to how many tickets you can purchase. If you don’t speak Korean, there are a handful of dance and non-verbal shows available. The Seoul Theater Center Ticket Box is the small teller window on the side of the building. It’s located just off exit 4 of Hyehwa Station (line 4). Open 1 p.m.–8 p.m., Monday through Friday, 11 a.m.–8 p.m. on Saturdays, 11 a.m.–7 p.m. on Sundays. Closed Mondays.

Big musical show discounts
Most large-scale musicals including Aida, Phantom of the Opera and Jekyll and Hyde offer a 20 to 30% discount on Wednesday 3 p.m. matinees shows. If you take advantage of this offer, be prepared to be in the company of a younger crowd, including students on a cultural field trip. Many musicals also offer a 20% discount during Lunar New Year holiday (February 9–11, some musicals offer discounts earlier than that). To find these deals, find the musical of your choice on Interpark, click and scroll down until you see the discount table (in Korean). Tip: It pays to hold on to ticket stubs you purchase because many musicals or venues give discounts to returning fans. For example, during the first month of performances, Aida is offering a 20% discount to people who watched the musical as early as 2006, as well as those who recently watched other performances at the same venue.

Spontaneity + social commerce = a match made in funemployment heaven
Last minute, midweek deals are in your favor when you don’t have to work every day. This past weekend, you could find a flight on Ticketmonster that cost 25,900 won one-way from Gimpo to Jeju (including airport and fuel surcharges). That offer has now ended, only to be replaced with the same deal with different airline with equally low fares. You’ll find similar deals on Coupang and other sites, as long as you can travel on Wednesday or Thursday. With less Koreans traveling during the winter months, you’ll also find many hotels and pensions (even those near ski resorts!) offering decent deals. Click here to see a comprehensive listing of all domestic travel offers on Korean social commerce sites.

HIGH-END RESTAURANTS, LOW-COST MENUS

Splurge and save with midweek lunch menus
Have you been eyeing a fancy fusion restaurant? There’s a good chance it offers a lunch menu that’s more budget-friendly during the weekdays. Some nouveau Korean high-end restaurants to try: Congdu, Dadam (pictured left) and Jungshikdang.

Visit those elusive restaurants and cafes
Most of Seoul’s most popular restaurants are far from fancy, but they require a long queue. That’s not an issue, however, if you have the luxury of showing up when everybody else is still at their desks. Try the off-peak queues at Yeongdong Jokbal, Pizzeria d’Buzza, Mies Container and Bada Shikdang, to name a few, but keep in mind that some restaurants close between lunch and dinner hours. Also, look for storied “matjip” restaurants and cafes in financial districts like Yeouido, as many of them tend to be open only during business hours. If you can dine with leisure within those limited hours, try visiting Victoria, a cafe in Yeouido known for organic pies and tarts. Tip: Naver “여의도 맛집” for cheap, midweek lunch ideas.

Inline images from Megabox, Seoul Theatre Center and Ticketmonster. Dadam photo by Meagan Mastriani.

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A portion of this article aired on the radio show 1013 Mainstreet (TBS eFM) on January 14, 2013.

Editor’s Note: We’re testing out a new approach to the Weekender. Instead of publishing a list of events every week, we’re covering the entire month and featuring select events paired with other activities. We’ll publish the Weekender at the beginning of each month, and we’ll continue to update it with new events as they come, so look out for announcements on our Facebook or Twitter.

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WEEKEND OF JANUARY 12

View Cuban art at ARA Art center

With daytime temperatures just barely above the freezing point this weekend, it’s a good time to get out and do some gallery hopping in Jongno-gu. Drop by the newcomer ARA Art Center, a gallery megaplex between Anguk and Jongkak stations. Multiple stories means multiple exhibitions for your viewing pleasure. Most exhibitions at ARA are free, but a couple special exhibitions charge 10,000 won admission. If you’re socially-savvy and can read some Korean, purchase tickets to the Havana-themed modern Latin American art exhibition at a 45% discount on this social commerce site (limited offer!). Visit the gallery Facebook for photos of the exhibition. ARA Art Center (아라아트센터), 85-24 Gyeongji-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul (Map). Open 10 a.m.–7 p.m. daily (closed Mondays).

Take old-school Korean photos at Gogan Photo Cafe
Granted, this hanbok studio/cafe serves mostly tourists or Korean couples commemorating the momentous 100th day, but for as little as 20,000 won per person, you could dress up in hanbok and take your own photos while enjoying traditional Korean tea. Starting at 60,000 won per person, they’ll throw in a two-page photo album and hair and makeup too. See what the experience is like here and use this SMS coupon to receive 20% off if you pay in cash. Gogan Photo Cafe (고관포토카페), 143 Insa-dong, Jongno-gu (map). Open 9 a.m.–7 p.m. From 40,000~150,000 won per couple.

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WEEKEND OF JANUARY 19

Magic Strawberry Sound Flea Market
Sunday, January 20 from 4–9 p.m.
Indie music label/collective Magic Strawberry Sound hosts their first big event of 2013 this weekend: a flea market modeled after the spirit of London’s Bricklane and Tokyo’s Yoyogi. Don’t expect the typical flea market fare; many of these clothes, accessories and items belong to MSB artists like the lyrical Yozoh. In addition to the bric-a-brac, there will be shows at 6 and 8 p.m. by People and People (사람또사람) and light snacks to keep you warm and entertained. At Strawberry Sound (딸기다방), B1 level of 335-5 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul (map). Free admission. Arrive before 6 p.m. for lucky draws including signed CDs. Visit msbsound.com (Korean) for information.

Enjoy indie music in Mullae-dong
Sunday, January 20 at 7 p.m.
At the helm of Mullae-dong’s burgeoning music scene is Lowrise, a music space that hosts “live music, parties, special events and ongoing contemporary art projects.” Drop by Lowrise on January 20 to see Mr. Headbutt From Daegu (박치기씨 프럼 대구), ECE (이씨이), Pigibit5 (피기비츠) and Heukyeomso (흑염소). Lowrise, 58-77 3rd floor Mullae-dong 3-ga, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul.

There’s always something new at Mullae Art Space
Since you’re in the neighborhood, swing by Mullae Art Space for Mullae Diaries, the latest performance series by resident artist Won-seok Hong outlining the history of Mullae-dong since the 1930s. Mullae Diaries (문래일기) by Wong-seok Hong (홍원석). January 4 through 28. 10 a.m.–7 p.m. Mullae Art Space, first floor studio M30. Free admission.

Pork out at Donsadon
After you’ve had your fill of art, get your fill of pork to complete your weekend. From Mullae station, take the metro a few stops to Hapjeong Station and help yourself to some of Jeju’s best. Donsadon is best known for its thick cubed slices of pork BBQ and long lines on weekends. The minimum order (근고기, 36,000 won) is enough to feed a table of three (or a hungry table of two). Try their famous gochujang jiggae; it’s better than it sounds. Donsadon, 426-5 Hapejong-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul (map). Open 5 p.m. to midnight daily.

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WEEKEND OF JANUARY 26

Network at Linked Seoul “Getting Hired in Korea” Champagne Seminar
11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m, Saturday, January 26
If you’re looking for a job or a change in career in Seoul, this helpful seminar combines the insights of an expat panel and HR experts with an irresistible champagne brunch. Gather your friends and get the group discount rate for 35,000 won per person. At Macaroni Market, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul.

Browse second-hand English books
About 40 meters east of Macaroni Market is the Beautiful Store Bookstore where you’ll find a modest but diverse selection of bestsellers and classics in English (and some pretty cheesy and outdated titles as well!). The bookstore is not marked on the building, so look out for a street banner (it’s on the third floor of the building with Hana Bank in the lobby, next door to the colorful IP Boutique Hotel). The Beautiful Store Bookstore (아름다운가게 책방), 737-28 Ahnsung Tower Suite 306 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul (map).

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Our Weekender selections are drawn from personal recommendations, internet scouring and sometimes even press releases. We try to be meticulous and current with our event listings, but events may change without notice. If you would like to submit an event, please send descriptions (in English) and photos to events@seoulistmag.com.